If you don't like the weather....

We’ve discovered that if you don’t like the weather in Boquete you don’t have to travel far to experience a totally different weather pattern. We headed to Playa La Barqueta, about one hour and twenty minutes from Boquete, or thirty minutes from David, and stayed in a beachside condo at Las Olas. The air was considerably warmer here; the sun gave our previously white skin hues of red and brown. While some countries boast of sparkling white sand beaches, this area’s beaches had fine black sand, likely due to the volcanic action from 400 to 500 years ago.

Closer to our temporary home in Boquete, about a thirty minute drive away, we found hot, dry weather along with magnificent views of the country side at Rancho de Caldera.

The Boquete Annual Coffee and Flower fair typically draws 100,000 visitors over a ten day period, and we were able to visit it on opening day. The flowers are planted well in advance and all are in full bloom for the fair.

There were a number of booths selling crafts from various South and Central America countries; at one we were able to purchase a mola. Mola panels have been worn as part of the traditional dress of Kuna women; they are hand made from layers of different coloured cloth that are sewn together; the design is formed by cutting away parts of each layer.

And all too soon, our visit to Panama draws to a close. We have enjoyed the warm weather, the beautiful scenery, and the friendly people. A very special thanks go to our hosts Andy and Bonnie (my brother and sister-in-law) for their hospitality, their warmth and openness, and for being such excellent, knowledgeable tour guides. Hasta luego.

Now on to the next part of our adventure - Guatemala.

Coffee beans ready for picking

Boquete

Boquete, a small community in the province of Chiriqui, is rated as one of the top five places in the world to retire (according to the British “Happy Planet Index”), and it’s where we’ve called home for the last few days. We are visiting in the dry season but it has been “unseasonably cool and wet”. As Boquete is in the hills, bajareque, a fine mist in the air, is a frequent phenomenon. And while we did experience some bajareque, the phenomenon we most experienced was rain. However, rain or sun, the flowers in the area are absolutely stunning, and the many rivers combined with lush vegetation provided for incredible scenery.

Coffee, oranges, celery, lettuce, cabbage, potatoes, onions, carrots - we’ve seen all of these growing in the hills in the surrounding area. In Canada, it would be unfathomable to see crops grown on hillsides so steep, and yet in Chiriqui crops are planted in rows with amazing precision. There are no irrigation systems and the locals rely on the bajareque and the rain to provide the moisture required for their crops.

Who would think that we would actually see toques and gloves for sale in Panama, and yet, not only did we see them for sale, we also saw a young boy wearing both. In fact, many of the locals in Volcan and Cerro Punta were dressed more for a cool Canadian fall day than for a summer day in Panama; long pants, sweaters and coats were the norm in these highlands. We passed through these towns on our way to Volcan Baru, a dormant volcano and the highest mountain in Panama at 3474 meters (over 11,000 feet) high.

Every country has its indigenous people, and these people are often amongst those who live in poverty. Panama is no different. Approximately fourty-five percent of Panama’s population live below the poverty line; the indigenous people, the Indians, make up twelve percent of the population, and most are very poor. There are eight Indian tribes in Panama, with the Ngobe being most predominant in the mountainous areas in Chiriqui and in their reserve (from the Pacific to the Caribbean coast). We saw many of the Ngobe, particularly in the coffee-growing areas where they are often employed to pick coffee beans; the women easily recognizable as they wear traditional bright gowns of various colours.

The Panama Canal and Casco Viejo

Have you ever wondered how many tons of rock were moved in order to build the Panama Canal? Or how many men were employed in completing this extraordinary feat? How about why the United States came to have control over such an important aspect of Panama for so many years? If you've asked these questions, and if you don't speak Spanish (like us), then I'd suggest you not watch the Spanish version of the history of the canal.

The first week of our Central America trip is actually a “tourist” holiday, and like all other tourists to Panama, we were fascinated with the Panama Canal. A trip to the Miraflores Locks provided us with an opportunity to learn not only the answers to those and other questions, but also to see the locks in operation, and to understand the future of the canal.

A vision for a canal to link the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans dates back to the early 16th century. In the 1880s the French unsuccessfully attempted to construct a canal; the company went bankrupt, and thousands of workers died due to diseases such as malaria and yellow fever. The United States launched a second effort in 1904 and successfully opened the canal in 1914. The U.S., under Jimmy Carter, signed a treaty in 1977 providing initially for shared governance, and then a full transition to Panama for control of the waterway which came into effect on December 31, 1999.

Shipping routes through The Panama flag on Ancon Hill

the Panama Canal (this flag is the size of a basketball court)

The Miraflores Locks on the Canal. The picture on the left shows the difference in the water levels.

The center photo shows the gates closing to create an enclosed chamber. The chamber is

then flooded with 26 million gallons of water. Once the water level reaches that of the upper level, the gates open to allow the vessel to go through. This process is repeated again in the set of the Miraflores Locks. The cost for a large vessel to transit through the channel can be up to $400,000.

In a 2006 referendum the Panamanian people approved the expansion of the Panama Canal. The new locks, which will be larger, more efficient and more ecological, are slated to complete in 2014, 100 years after the canal opened. Our time at Miraflores Locks was very interesting (muy interesante), and next time we’ll catch the English version of the movie.

Since we were only spending one day in Panama City, the other area we wanted to visit was Casco Viejo, the oldest part of Panama City, dating back to the early 1600’s. A key attraction here is a golden altar located in the Church of San Jose; the entire altar is crafted from solid gold. Legend has it that the altar was painted black in order to fool an infamous pirate, Henry Morgan, who destroyed much of the city in 1668 in his pilfering for gold.

Cobblestone streets are in abundance throughout this area and many of the original buildings are being restored. There is a strong military presence in the area; whether to provide protection to those residing in the government buildings, or to ensure the touristas are safe, wasn’t clear.

A Need and an Opportunity

Several years ago, if someone would have told me we’d be heading off to Guatemala to build homes for the poor, I likely would have replied “ya, I doubt it”. Not that I didn’t think it was a worthwhile thing to do; it was just not a vision either Glen or I had of how we would spend our “holiday time”. And yet, within a very short time, that is exactly what we will be heading off to do.

Our trip to Thailand last year opened our eyes to how much of the world’s population lives. In visiting the schools that doubled as orphanages in Mae Sot, in viewing the primitive conditions in the clinic that provides the only healthcare to thousands of refugees in Thailand and Myanmar, in helping to feed the children and the families who lived at the garbage dump, and in listening to the stories of a released political prisoner and his efforts to support his country-men, imprints were left on our hearts that will never disappear. While we always knew, and could voice how fortunate we are, the experiences we had gave those words true meaning.

Yet when an opportunity was presented to us to travel to Guatemala to help build homes for the poor, I can’t say that we excitedly jumped at the opportunity. To be honest, I will say that we cautiously entertained the idea. “What will be expected of me?” “How much do we need to fundraise?” “What will our living arrangements be like?” (loosely translated for me means “will there be bugs where I sleep?”). These were the questions that topped the list. Next on the list were “What is the need?” “Can I truly make a difference?”

We were assured that indeed there is a need. Fe Viva World Missions has an orphanage in Guazacapan, Guatemala; they also care for dozens of families in crisis in the community of Poza de Agua. This area has no social supports, basic needs are often not met, and families live in squalor. It is here that we will assist with building homes for the poor, with helping in the orphanage, and with doing what we can.

But can I truly make a difference? It would be naïve and somewhat grandiose to think I can make even a ripple of an impact in two weeks. And yet, I can play a tiny part in a much larger effort; an effort where many individuals and groups come together to do their part. This cumulative effort can make a difference - in the lives of one person, one family. And when those efforts are sustained by individuals and by groups, over time the effort can make a difference in the lives of people, families, and even communities.

So for now, we know there is a need. We feel blessed that we have this opportunity. And I suspect that, similar to our experiences in Thailand, the true difference may be felt more in us than in those we go to help. But we will try.

Money has been raised and foundations for 2 homes have already been laid; these are the homes we will complete